Arizona's Delightfully Diverse Deserts

 

Explore Arizona's incredible deserts. All photos are by Tamarajo, edited in Instagram or Snapseed, unless noted.

The Deserts of Arizona

My first visit to Arizona was in the early nineties, when my husband suggested we take a trip to see his mother, who lives in the Phoenix-area suburbs. Before this trip, I had barely left my home state of Minnesota, aside from a couple of border crossings into Iowa. My only exposure to a different climate came from what I saw on television or read about in a book. 

Given my limited travel experience, I wasn't prepared for the completely different climate and landscape I encountered. As a Minnesota native, I had taken trees, water, and greenery for granted before this journey. 

When I arrived in the desert basin of the Phoenix region, I was greeted by wide-open spaces of dusty-colored nothingness and barren mountains in the distance, with some Saguaro cacti sprinkled here and there. I felt a little bit like I had just arrived on another planet or the moon. 

The dry air was also something I was unaccustomed to. I quickly discovered why lip balm is a staple in Arizona. You might want to consider hairspray for your stay, too. The dry air makes for a very static experience.

This photo was taken at the Siphon Draw Trail 

A Change of Heart

I have to be honest: the Phoenix area's desert basin initially left me unimpressed. I wondered why approximately 4.5 million people in the 6th-largest city in the U.S. chose to live in this arid, hot, flat desert... until we did a little adventuring. Can I say I've since changed my mind? 

After several more visits and further exploration, I've come to appreciate the rich diversity and beauty of this desert state in all its varied expressions. The rest of this article compiles several visits, as we now make it an annual event. I can only speak to the places and spaces I've had the privilege to visit, but I can assure you there is so much more to see and do in this beautiful state. 

Let's get started!

Phoenix

The first stop is Phoenix and its suburbs. I'm not a fan of most things in any state's metro area, but the Phoenix area has a few highlights I enjoyed, including orange trees. If you visit in the winter, as we often do, the air smells like orange blossoms. They aren't native to this area, but private homeowners and commercial growers cultivate them. 

In Minnesota, oranges are dry, sour, and fibrous because they're picked too early to survive a long truck ride. An Arizona orange is ripe, sweet, and juicy! It was quite a treat to eat one right off the tree. It was succulent and sweet! 

Palm Trees

Another favorite tree I admire, common in the metro area, is the palm tree. As with the orange tree, you won't see this variety in the desert regions because it is not native to this area, but it is cultivated for landscaping in urban spaces. 

Palms are the southern version of an evergreen. They are not only beautiful but also a practical reprieve from Arizona's intense heat, as their large fronds provide substantial shade. Palms are practical and add a touch of life to the seemingly lifeless look of a desert basin.

Southwest Fast Food 

One of our favorite places to eat in Arizona is "In-N-Out Burger," which is only available in the Southwest. My husband and I aren't much into fancy dining, mainly because we are too busy exploring. If we don't get a chance to pack a lunch or supper, we stop here. There are about four menu options, and we keep it short, sweet, and simple. The flavor is fabulous, the bun is toasted, and the fresh-cut fries are made right before your very eyes. 

In such a large metropolitan area, you end up waiting in line for everything, no matter the time of day. Shopping events in these densely populated areas are a painful experience for me. In these respects, I'll stick with rural life.

South Mountain Park: Dobbins Point

South Mountain Park, also known as Dobbins Point, is a lovely little overlook park in the Phoenix area. It is a beautiful way to capture a bird's-eye view of this region's vast urban sprawl, if you don't mind driving a winding gravel road to get up there. 

The point sits about 1,000 feet above the metro area and overlooks it. Sunset is a spectacular time to visit, as the city's night lights mingle with the Arizona pink sky, offering a captivating desert panorama. 

This spot also has approximately 70 miles of trails; if you enjoy hiking, bike riding, and, rumor has it, horseback riding, they are available.

Agave Plant

One common plant you will see throughout both desert and urban spaces is the Agave plant. You might be familiar with a health-food sweetener called agave, made from this plant's nectar. 

A fascinating fact about the Agave plant is that it flowers once and then dies. It is sometimes known as the "century plant" because it can take many years, most commonly thirty or forty, for the plant to blossom. When it does flower, it shoots up a stalk up to thirty feet tall. Many species of this plant have varying leaf widths, but all have a similar structure. 

Superstition Mountains: Lost Dutchman State Park

The Superstition Mountains are rightly named, as they are the subject of many superstitions surrounding a lost Dutchman named Jacob Waltz. Jacob was a German immigrant whose search for gold sparked a legend of a hidden gold mine. Rumors claim he found a wealth of riches somewhere in the range but died with the secret of where the treasure was hidden. Many people have since lost their lives trying to discover the legendary riches and have perished either from the extreme and unforgiving desert climate or at the hands of unknown people attempting to prevent the find. These deadly searches have occurred as recently as 2011 and 2012. 

A reality series called "Legend of the Superstition Mountains" on the History Channel chronicles present-day treasure seekers' adventures in this area. The series provides plenty of background history, along with individual present-day stories and experiences. 

This park and mountains are just a hop, skip, and jump from Apache Junction, a Phoenix suburb. 

Prickly Pear Cactus

There are some "old western" themed touristy places to shop and eat just across the road from the park entrance. One memorable part of our visit was drinking prickly pear cactus juice. It was very refreshing and reminded me a bit of lemonade. I had no idea fruit juice could be made from a cactus plant. 

The prickly pear cactus is cold-tolerant and very common in the desert as well as in urban landscaping. It is a highly edible variety of cactus, which is thought to help stabilize blood sugar, lower bad cholesterol, and maintain good cholesterol. The leaves, flowers, stems, and fruits are all edible and can be boiled or grilled. Onward with our journey. 

Siphon Draw Trail: Destination Flat Iron

Within the "Lost Dutchman State Park" in the Superstition Mountains is a popular public trail that leads to the top of what is known as "Flat Iron." Its shape makes it easy to spot. This trail is a rugged, steep uphill climb that can feel relentless because it rises so quickly. 

It ranks as a challenging climb, and you should be in good shape if you plan to make the entire hike. That was not the case for me this year. It is nearly 6 miles to the top and back, with a little over 2500 ft of elevation gain from the base of the trail to the top of Flat Iron. The entire tour takes about 4-5 hours, so start early and give yourself plenty of time for the climb. 

There are no bathroom stops on this trail, and finding a private area could be challenging. So take care of that kind of business beforehand. 

Paragliders

If you're there at the right time, you may see paragliders descending from the sky. They land perfectly, right on the trail. An accurate landing is likely driven by the desire not to land on a prickly cactus or rocky outcropping. On warmer days, watch for snakes and scorpions. This region is their habitat, and even if you don't see them, it is good to know they are there. 

This is a great place to mention that bringing water is an absolute must on any desert hike, even if it isn't sweltering. The air is so dry, and just a little panting and mild sweating can leave you feeling parched. It does not take very long to dehydrate. Also, sunscreen is a necessity. If you are a northerner, such as myself, you will notice how much more intense and high in the sky the sun is in the south than the angled, more muted sunlight in the north.

The Water Basin: Summit Flat Iron

The halfway point to Flat Iron is known as the "water basin." The elevation at this spot is 3085 feet, about a 1000-foot gain from the trailhead. This is where I usually stop because I'm afraid of heights. The trail here becomes much more rugged and steeper, and it's littered with loose rock. 

This spot is also where my husband and I split up. He heads to the top. I linger and join up with some fellow northerners for the trip back down. 

The Top of Flat Iron

One day I hope to work up the courage to reach the top. Until then, my husband will photograph that leg of the journey. He would rather climb and enjoy the view, but he took a few shots just for me. If you like roughing it, you can camp at the top. Hilariously, this year I dawdled so much, taking photos and admiring the views, that he made it to the top and back in the same time it took me to go halfway up and back. 

Spires at the top of Flat Iron

Plane Crash

At the top of this trail, rocky spires project from the mountaintop. One of them bears the black, sooty remnants of a tragic plane crash that occurred in 2011. 

A divorced father of three was flying his children to his home for Thanksgiving in a twin-engine plane. Another pilot, on board and manning this leg of the flight, crashed into one of the spires. A mechanic was also on board, just along for the ride. Six people in total perished in the incident. 

The flight occurred at night and became controversial over FAA rules that had changed five years earlier. Because of an increased volume of commercial flights, the regulation required small aircraft to fly below 5000 feet. With these mountains at about the same elevation, pilots have had some scary encounters navigating this area. 

Saguaro Cactus

The ever-popular and iconic Saguaro Cactus is a standout cactus native to, and exclusive to, the Sonoran Desert region. Its blossom is the Arizona state flower, and it is the largest cactus in the United States. 

It can grow up to 70 feet tall and weigh up to 4500 pounds. It has a 5-foot taproot with a spreading network that averages only 4-6 inches deep. It is a cold-intolerant cactus that can be killed by frost. Depending on how much moisture it receives, the plant can shrink or swell by 25 percent in a given year. Interestingly, it is made up of mostly water. Its design helps it conserve water impressively. 

Saguaro cacti can live up to about 200 years, and they don't grow flowers until they are about 35 years old or develop arms until they are about 100. These, like the Prickly Pear, have edible parts. Birds such as woodpeckers may harm a cactus by making holes and creating unstable areas in this huge plant. It is also illegal to damage a Saguaro cactus in Arizona. 

The Grand Canyon

What would a trip to Arizona be without a visit to the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon in the state's northern part? It is one of the world's natural wonders and the second-largest canyon. 

Nothing could have prepared me for the sensation of experiencing its vastness, dizzying depths, and grandeur. I say "space" because that is what it felt like, as if I were out in the middle of outer space! My depth perception was calibrated for a flat southern Minnesota landscape, and all systems were on tilt as I tried to take in the "take-my-breath-away" views. I was both terrified and mesmerized. If you were there, I was the lady who inched her way to the bars at the edge of the precipice overlooking the 1-mile-high, 18-mile-wide, and 277-mile-long crack in the earth, wincing and whining all the way. 

The Fine Line

My husband is the opposite of me and can be found fearlessly skipping around tall, isolated rock formations like a gazelle while I wince and whine. I always tell him how much I admire his bravery, to which he replies, "There is a fine line between bravery and stupidity." 

I think the man with the fancy camera who was watching might agree. He was encouraging the leap, and I was pretty sure he was looking to get his once-in-a-lifetime, million-dollar shot of someone jumping to their death. 

My fears aren't entirely unfounded. The Grand Canyon has approximately four and a half million visitors annually and claims about twelve of them to death of some kind. Two or three of these deaths are due to falling into the canyon, not to mention the over 300 helicopter rescues performed annually. 

You can do so many things at the Canyon that aren't included in this writing, such as aerial viewing via helicopter, mule rides, hiking, fishing, and kayaking down the Colorado River that flows through the Canyon. The list is endless.

Snowbowl and Flagstaff

Not too far south of the Grand Canyon lies a mountainous region known as the San Francisco Peaks, with heavy winter snow and home to Humphreys Peak. Humphreys Peak is Arizona's highest point, at 12,633 feet. 

We occasionally head up to this area so my husband can take advantage of the ski runs at the Arizona Snowbowl Ski Resort. They offer a great "Ski free on your birthday" deal, which he likes to take advantage of. 

The winter climate in this part of the state feels more like an average winter day at home. The Northern Arizona Ponderosa pine forest reminds me a little of Northern Minnesota, except for the elevation. In Minnesota, we have some tiny mountains in the extreme northeastern corner of the state. These are by far more prominent.

Other Flagstaff Opportunities 

Typically, Arizona's mountainous area receives about 100 inches of snow each year, making it one of the snowiest cities in the U.S. Snowbowl remains open in the summer, offering scenic views from the ski lifts. 

If you are athletic and adventurous, "Flagstaff Extreme" offers a zip-line obstacle course, and once again, the views are fabulous. 

Flagstaff is just south of this mountain range and ten miles from the ski area. It has a population of approximately 70,000. It sits at the intersection of two major interstates: 40 running east and west, and 17 running north and south. 

Before we head south and west from Flagstaff, there are just a couple of places to note to the east for our next destination. 

PL Bechly

Meteor Crater

Meteor Crater is a fascinating little place to stop. It lies a little west of Flagstaff and not far from Interstate 40 in the northern part of the state. 

No hiking here, not even a tree to look at, but the massive hole in the ground is stunning. It is a perfectly shaped bowl, evidence of the impact of a giant spherical object from beyond this planet. I can't even imagine the sensation of that impact; like the Canyon, a photo can't quite capture its immensity or the personal feeling of smallness while standing along its rim. A six-foot-tall astronaut dummy stands in the crater's center as a size reference. An educational center, gift shop, and Subway sandwich shop are on site.

The Petrified Forest and Painted Desert

I only have a few things to say about the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert. As deserts go, yes, they were both a beautiful "look-see," but I had a problem with the word "forest" in the name of a place with no trees. I felt a little deceived. It should have been called the "Petrified Wood Chunks Desert." There wasn't a tree anywhere to be found, and if you wanted to see petrified wood, binoculars would be required because you can't just go out and look at it. You would be better off going to the rock hound area that will be discussed later. You can also take some specimens home and see a few desert plants for your viewing pleasure. The next stop is Walnut Canyon.

Walnut Canyon National Monument

Walnut Canyon National Monument was a nice little afterthought and a pleasant surprise while my husband skied in Flagstaff. I don't ski, but I don't mind a little hiking. We brought a friend, so he and I chose this little gem to explore. 

Walnut Canyon's Trails

This canyon is just a few miles west of Flagstaff and features a couple of beautiful hiking trails that lead to ancient Native American cliff dwellings. The rim trail is a little less than a mile long and offers spectacular canyon views, plus "up close" and personal tours through cozy-looking ancient homes tucked into the rocks. You can go inside these fascinating living spaces and imagine what it was like to live there. For the most part, it's a paved, relatively easy path. The Island Trail is a little more strenuous, with some elevation changes and about a mile long. 

Gillfoto

Montezuma's Castle

Another area features cliff dwellings known as Montezuma's Castle, farther south and just off Interstate 17, south of Flagstaff. Montezuma's Castle doesn't offer hiking, and the dwelling is 90 feet up the cliff. The dwellings can only be viewed from below. A miniature replica shows what the inside looks like and how the Native Americans used it. 

Arizona NPS

Arizona Sycamore

Another feature I noted at this park is the Arizona Sycamore trees that ornament the area. I was fascinated by the tree's beautiful patchwork bark patterns. 

I also learned that these are Arizona's largest deciduous trees, growing as tall as 80 feet, with an almost equal spread. Like the palm, it can provide substantial shade with its huge, four- to six-inch, star-shaped leaves. This particular variety of Sycamore is native and exclusive to this region of the U.S. 

Seasoned logs from this tree can last for centuries. The roof beams of Montezuma's Castle are made from Sycamore logs that are over 700 years old. 

It's time to head west and south on one of my favorite drives through Oak Creek Canyon. 

Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Drive

According to Rand McNally, the Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Drive is among the top five in the U.S. Highway 89 runs from Flagstaff to Sedona. It's about a 30-mile drive that takes about 45 minutes, depending on how often you pull over to look around. A lovely overlook park sits at the top of the canyon, about 15 minutes south of Flagstaff, offering a beautiful bird's-eye view of this forested red rock region. 

Hairpin switchbacks line the way. Once again, I was both terrified and mesmerized. I can report that the view was totally worth the fear. The 15-mile-per-hour speed limit around the turns helped a lot, and guardrails line the road's cliffside. The elevation drops about 4000 feet from the overlook to Sedona, another 15 miles from there. 

Sedona

Sedona, home of the infamous red rocks, has a population of only 10,000, but it feels like a lot more from a traffic perspective because of the massive tourism. Scenic Highway 89 is heavily traveled through Sedona. 

Sedona is full of craft, culture, and mysticism; be prepared to hear about and see gift shops stocked with items themed around aliens and vortexes. 

Like the Grand Canyon, this region offers plenty to do. We prefer the trail on the outskirts, where we can explore a variety of activities. The natural wonders are in no comparison to the sometimes odd offerings within the town itself.

Gaylon Yancey

Bell Rock

Bell Rock, appropriately named for its shape, is just outside Sedona. It is one of our favorite hikes. 

Devil's Bridge

"Devil's Bridge" is a unique natural bridge not too far outside Sedona, and I was almost as amused by it as by the Grand Canyon. Nothing compares to the Grand Canyon. It is a three-mile round-trip hike that's easy for the most part, until you get to the end. The last ten minutes of the walk gain elevation dramatically, with rough rock steps that curve steeply up a ridge leading to the bridge.

The Devil's Bridge Trail

As an acrophobe, it took me about fifteen minutes to talk myself into taking the second set of rock steps up to the bridge. The winding stairs look cozy, tucked into the surrounding mountainside, but to the left lies wide-open space over the cliff. Many people passed me with ease, so my senses may have been a bit exaggerated. 

Once you get to the top, it can be slippery and icy. This area sits at about 4000 feet and is shaded most of the time, which helps this little spot maintain snow and ice. 

Much like the canyon, this area can be hazardous if you don't watch your step. I would not recommend bringing little ones up there. Folks have died on this trail. The view is worth the climb. Use caution and watch your step. 

I didn't make it to the bridge on the first visit. I was determined to do so on the last visit, even if I had to crawl on my belly, and I made it. I didn't resort to belly crawling; instead, I used a bottom-scooting, stay-low technique while my husband jumped over the three-foot-wide, bottomless crevice, as shown in the accompanying photos for this section. 

Manzanita Tree

While at the top of Devil's Bridge, I found an amusing tree with bark so smooth it looked plastic. After a bit of research, I learned it's a Manzanita tree. Its name comes from the Spanish word for apple because its fruit resembles miniature apples. 

These evergreen shrubs produce edible berries and are common in this area. The leaves have medicinal uses for treating poison oak rash and mild urinary tract infections, and they can also be used as a disinfectant. The flowers are pink, bell-shaped, and smell like honey. They contain enough nectar that you can squeeze them and take a bit of nectar yourself. Seeds commonly sprout after a fire cracks open the seed pod. These seeds can lie dormant for up to one hundred years. 

Cathedral Rock

Another popular hike in the Sedona area is Cathedral Rock. Once again, my husband or a friend took the best photo of this section as they peered through the spires because I couldn't get up that high. It's less than a mile hike to the spires, which rise about 900 feet above Oak Creek, and it's one of the most photographed places in Arizona. 

It isn't always the height that gets me about these places, but the rock's texture does, too. Sometimes the trails lead up smooth, slippery, or loose rock that is hard to get a firm grip on with your feet or hands, if needed. 

As with the dangers already discussed in other sections of this tour, this spot has its share. The photo that heads this section was taken at the base of the spires (600 feet up) at the top of the trail. Some folks have died climbing the spires. Climbing the spires is therefore not recommended. 

Bell Rock, displayed in the Sedona section, is the most climbed rock in the area, and it is also where most rock climbing deaths have occurred. It isn't nearly as tall as the others, but the unstable, crumbly sandstone can give way quite quickly. Like Cathedral Rock, it's relatively safe and easy at first, but it's dangerous trying to get to the top. 

Another safety note on these climbs: always watch for loose rock and keep your ears open for falling rock along the way. I had one come rolling at me on the Siphon Draw Trail. Others up ahead were kind enough to yell "rock" several times for those of us in its path, so we could step aside and get out of the way. 

Barrel Cactus or Compass Cactus

Another desert plant common in both urban and wilderness areas is the Barrel Cactus. The Barrel cactus gets its name obviously from its spherical shape. It has a similar water-conserving accordion structure to the Saguaro Cactus. This plant is about three feet tall. A deep prick from this variety of cactus might require an antibiotic. The fruit on this cactus can be eaten, but word on the street is it isn't very palatable. They are also known as the Compass Cactus because they slant towards the south. This slanting occurs because the northern, more shaded side grows faster.

Theodore Roosevelt Dam

My husband thought it would be entertaining to take me to see Theodore Roosevelt Dam on the Salt River northeast of Phoenix. 

The entertainment involved choosing a lesser-traveled route, State Highway 88, otherwise known as the Apache Trail, knowing I might find it distressing. 

It is only 45 miles long but takes three and a half hours to drive. The length comes from the hairpin curves and steep grades along this mostly gravel road, sometimes with no guardrails and sometimes potholed. Slow is about all you should go. A few spots barely allow two vehicles to pass. R.V.s aren't recommended on this route, but we saw several along the way. 

The first part of the trip was unsuspectingly easy and beautiful. I spent most of the last half of the journey in the backseat, bent over so I couldn't see the unguarded, dizzying depths. Either my husband was a bit unnerved, or he didn't care about the results of his entertainment attempt, because he opted for a much longer interstate route for the ride back. 

This terrifying experience explains the lack of photos on the second leg of this journey. I therefore posted a YouTube video recorded by someone braver than I. The driver in this video also sounds a bit distressed. 

Please don't let me discourage you from this scenic adventure. It gets almost five stars on TripAdvisor from most folks who sincerely enjoy this kind of thing. A trip to the Colorado Rockies is not in my near future. 

Round Mountain BLM Rockhound Area

One of my favorite adventures on our Arizona tour is rockhounding with a few friends at the Round Mountain Rock Hound Area on the Arizona-New Mexico border, hosted by the Bureau of Land Management.

Fire Agate

Fire agate is our goal, but I've been known to haul home about 100 pounds of anything unique and beautiful. The chalcedony just lies on the ground. In some spots, it's so thick it looks like it snowed. I'm still quite an amateur at this and am honing my identification skills. 

Most land has private or corporate mineral rights claims, and landowners don't take too kindly to trespassing or collecting on their property without permission or payment. So Arizona has generously set aside a chunk of land for free public collecting. They only ask that you don't sell what you find, clean up after yourself, and don't use any large mining or digging equipment. It's set aside for people like me who have fun finding and collecting material for a personal collection. 

A Scenic Drive

This place is about a four-hour drive from the Phoenix area through the lonely desert. There are no large metropolitan areas along the way to the far eastern side of the state, just small communities and reservations. Saguaro cacti are nowhere to be found past Globe. I was surprised to see cotton fields along the way. 

A 360-degree scan of this place leaves you with the impression that you are in the middle of absolutely nowhere, with the world all to yourself. 

We did have to share the space with cows, as the nearby Lazy B Ranch uses the land for cattle grazing. Supreme Court Justice Sandra Day O'Connor was raised on this very ranch and even wrote a book about it, "Growing up on a Cattle Ranch in the American West" (2002). 

We also shared space with several varieties of pit vipers, Gila Monsters, and scorpions. Still, we saw none because it was February and cool enough to keep them hibernating. I did, however, see a coyote peek at me from behind a desert bush. Two of us wore snake boots. It helped me relax and focus on potential treasures rather than on noxious reptiles. 

Gem hunting is big business in Arizona. Tucson, between the rockhound area and Phoenix, hosts the world's most extensive rock show annually. I prefer to find the stuff myself. A rock shop in the nearby town of Duncan is called "Rock-a-Buy." The owner is amiable and offers excellent tips on how and where to find fire agates. He also has a lovely collection of his own to admire, and you might want to grab a little souvenir while you're there. 

Duncan Arizona

The final leg of our journey ends at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona. This place is where we usually spend the night after a long, hard day in the desert searching for treasures. It is a charming, historic, renovated bed and breakfast that offers extremely reasonably priced rooms. 

The Simpson Hotel

Breakfast is optional. If you want breakfast, it is $12.00 extra but well worth the added expense. It consists of an all-natural, organic (when possible) meal, with nearly everything sourced from local growers and producers. Our breakfast included a fresh egg frittata, turkey bacon, fried potatoes, tortillas, and fresh fruit. Unlimited orange juice and coffee are included. 

Rural Desert Community

Despite being within city limits, there is a hobby farm here. There is a goat, some chickens, and a few stray cats. In the morning, the windowed doors at the end of the hall are crowded with cats and chickens peering into the house, most likely wondering what's for breakfast. 

We had dinner at a local, family-owned pizza place called "Humble Pie" just across the street, and I must say it was the best pizza I have ever eaten. 

Duncan is a small town in Arizona, only about 15 minutes from the Rockhound area and 5 miles from the New Mexico border. It hosts a little over 600 people and sits along the Gila River, from which the Gila monster derives its name. The Gila monster, a sluggish venomous lizard, is found only in this region. Interestingly, its venom has been studied because it may inhibit the growth of lung cancer tumors. 

A Worthwhile Trip

I hope you enjoyed the tour and can, someday, partake of some of these lovely offerings in the Grand Canyon state if you haven't already. I also hope I have provided helpful information should you get the opportunity. I will continue to add experiences as we venture into new places. 

© 2017 Tamarajo